This post also mandatorily belongs to the “Specials” section. The Day of the Dead is one of the most widely known festivals in Mexican culture and tradition, and it’s unique aesthetic has been widely spread internationally.
The Calaveras, the iconic orange marigold flowers, the skeleton makeup, colorful dresses, and other unique aspects contribute to creating a one-of-a-kind atmosphere.
Being able to visit Mexico during the iconic Day of the Dead festival is truly something special, and among all the cities and towns that celebrate this hugely popular festival, arguably the most famous destination is Oaxaca City, in the province of Oaxaca.
The city turns all its energies to the festival during a period that lasts almost a week between preparations, the festival, and the aftermath.
What to expect
About
The Day of the Dead (El Día de los Muertos) is a Mexican holiday held annually on the 2nd of November and is celebrated all over Mexico. Its iconic aesthetic has spilled internationally, and it is easy to see its influences elsewhere in the world, but witnessing and participating in it in Mexico is a truly unique experience.
There is no clear origin to the festival, with some indications that it may have had pre-Columbian roots and tying it to the Aztecs, while others believe it was a more recent reinterpretation and personalized view of old medieval European traditions.
The European influences are undeniable, but the Dia de los Muertos has developed its own unique aesthetic and traditions. The most obvious difference with All Saints Day is, for example, that it has a much less solemn tone and is portrayed as a holiday of joyful celebration rather than mourning. Also, when comparing it to Halloween or the original Hallow’s Eve, the differences are striking, with a much more pronounced embracement of death rather than its rejection or orientation towards scary aspects of it.
When it comes to aesthetics, the main characteristics are the iconic marigold flowers (cempasúchil), the face painting, the paper machè Calaveras, and the altars, which are created in homes and also in places open to the public, each with varying themes (from more somber altars dedicated to a family member to religious Catholic altars to altars dedicated to pets, skeletons on bicycles, or only artistic altars with complex designs made of fruit or flower decorations).
Puebla
Puebla de Zaragoza is the capital of the eponymous province.
It is the 4th largest city in Mexico, with a population of over 3 million people.
The sprawling city is a tourist attraction when it comes to its city center, as the buildings have various styles and techniques, such as Baroque, Renaissance, and Classic, and the colonial heritage is on full display.
During the Day of the Dead, the city paints itself with marigold flowers and altars, and walking within the baroque Zocalo surrounded by a joyous, somber, and sometimes unsettling environment is truly a unique experience.
Oaxaca City
Oaxaca City is the capital of the state of Oaxaca and a famous tourist destination.
Over the years, it has gained the reputation of being the best place to witness and celebrate the Day of the Dead, and the town changes and dresses itself up for the occasion.
Oaxaca City has two major neighborhoods that are lively by default and that simply light up with festivities and theme decorations during these days. The first is the Zocalo; like all Mexican cities, the main town square facing the main cathedral is the hub of the old town. Pedestrian, filled with cafes, street food, and vendors, and winding small streets The other is the Barrio Jalatlaco, the artistic street art area of town.
How to Visit
If you want to experience the Day of the Dead to its fullest, get there at least 2–3 days earlier—around the 29th of October—and just wander around the streets to witness the essence of the festival slowly taking over the city. The mercados will be filled with fresh-cut flowers (the cempasúchil flowers), bakeries will be busy making pan de muerto, and just about everywhere decorations will be put out in place.
While Day of the Dead altars are typically on display at private homes, there are several made by hotels, in the neighborhoods, and in open houses that you can see while you’re wandering around the streets.
Many locals will go to cemeteries to visit their loved ones on the day of the dead itself, where the tombs are also “dressed up”. I highly recommend visiting cemeteries during this period. Visiting these arguably grim locations during this time period creates an otherworldly (no pun intended) atmosphere with the flowers and decorations that are added to the tombs and graves. Remember, however, the somber environment that surrounds you. It may be colorful and fascinating, but the offers and dedications to lost loved ones need to be respected at all times, as can be imagined.
The Day of the Dead
After having absorbed the atmosphere in the days of preparation leading up to the day of the dead, it is time for the actual day when the big festivities kick off.
After the 31st of October, which is a large festival with Halloween influences, November 1st is the Día de los Inocentes – the day of the innocents – a day to remember the children who have passed. The Dia de los Muertos proper – the day of the spirits of adults who have passed, is officially the 2nd of November.
On the actual night of the dead, it is almost mandatory to indulge the makeup artists. Everyone has their skeleton silhouette mask painted on and it is definitely part of the experience.
After having had your face painted and put on your marigold corona, throw yourself into the chaotic streets. There are several moments where one “needs to be” to maximize the experience and atmosphere, but realistically, everywhere is a grand festival.
Just follow the crowds (with the usual keen eye for pickpockets – I had my phone stolen in a matter of seconds within a crowd while following a parade in the main square) and enjoy the cacophony, the chaos, and the goliardic celebrations. You will find people acting dead in the middle of the street, others waving flags, bands playing, and others dancing – it is basically a Carnival on steroids.
Tips & Impressions
- This is simply anecdotal since it can occur in any city as a visitor, but I had my phone pickpocketed when I was in large crowds. It was taken in a pretty clumsy way, but the sheer number of people made it impossible for me to react and identify the person (I turned, and it seemed I was in Gotham City with all these skeleton-painted faces staring at me).
- There is an immense number of tourists. Most can be separated into two categories: tourists belonging to organized tours, which move en masse and go to the right locations at various moments of the day, and backpackers, who more casually immerse themselves in the atmosphere.
- I stayed in Oaxaca for almost a week and in Puebla for a couple of days. After only a couple of days, I was spent. The constant partying and parades every day were simply too much for my old bones.
- As much as staying in the center is the whole point of the experience, when it comes to restaurants, many are of lower quality and tourist-oriented. It is a pity since Oaxacan cuisine is world-known. In any case, one just needs to walk a little outside the major tourist hubs to enjoy the great cuisine.
Weather
The surroundings of the city will delight with their desertic, cactus-ridden plains, as Oaxaca has a tropical savanna climate. The city is located at a relatively high altitude (1500m), therefore the sun hits hard, and at night the temperatures drop quite considerably (to around 10°C).
The Day of the Dead falls right between the end of the wet season and the beginning of the dry season. As such, there may be some rain and a cooler temperature, but usually the weather is good, with daytime highs averaging 27.1 °C.
Money
The currency is the Mexican Peso (MXN, often abbreviated to $ which can be misleading).
The exchange rate from US Dollars is 1 USD = 17 MXN.
Credit cards are somewhat accepted within the more touristic historical areas of the city and in large shops. ATMs are commonly distributed around the city. Of notice is that the city has some high scamming levels; therefore, it is best to use ATMs located within bank buildings.
Prices: Oaxaca is cheap because it is on a less-beaten path when compared to other destinations in the country, such as the Yucatan Peninsula or Mexico City surroundings. However, during the days surrounding the Day of the Dead festival, the prices skyrocket, and in this case, it is best to book everything in advance.
Tipping: In Mexico, tipping is expected, and it is common to leave 10%, although 15 and 18 are also commonplace.
Etiquette
- I said before that it is like a carnival on steroids. That may be true in some sense, but it is also a festival that revolves around family, community, and the past. Excessively drinking and being too over the top should be avoided, not least as a visitor and the risks that being intoxicated can entail.
- When it comes to private displays, such as altars inside open houses, a tip is not required, but some places will have an offering box.
- Oaxaca is a tourist magnet in this period and it is good manners to ask permission when taking photographs
- There are many street performers carefully dressed up, and they expect to receive a small offering or tip (propina) for taking pictures of or with them.
Getting there
- By air. Both Puebla and Oaxaca have international airports
- By car: they can also be easily reached, with Puebla being only 133 km south of Mexico City via highway and Oaxaca 340 km also on the highway south of Puebla. As with much of Mexico, driving is a pleasure in itself, and the subtropical climate and landscape of the state of Oaxaca, with its cactuses, arid plains, and mountains, are sure to inspire.
Safety
Safety: Oaxaca and Puebla are not dangerous states, although they are poorer places when compared to Mexico City or the highly touristic states on the Riviera Maya.
There is a higher-than-average risk of pickpockets, and even mugging in Oaxaca. Also, scams are widespread, especially impersonating police authorities. There is also drug-related crime in the area.
During the Day of the Dead, the main safety concerns come from the city which is poured in the streets. Although there is no risk of being trampled, it is common for pickpocketing to occur.
Emergencies number: 911
Natural risks: Central Mexico is prone to earthquakes and visitors can experience occasional tremors.
Travelogue
Puebla
Although I did not spend the Day of the Dead in Puebla, walking around the old city during the preparations was wonderful nonetheless. The city is beautiful in itself and I felt a somewhat more genuine and religious aspect to it as well as more attention given to artistic exhibitions by the local schools, and municipality in general.
Being still in the preparation phase, hanging around in the main Zocalo was wonderful, with a calmer environment, amazing weather, and just infinite things to see all around.
Oaxaca
I stayed at Hotel Casona Oaxaca ($$$$$), right next to the Zocalo/main town square and cathedral.
Prices were very expensive everywhere and the hotel has a wonderful aesthetic with a large main inner courtyard. Rooms are spacious albeit a bit old looking, but very comfortable. The location though is unbeatable.
Closing Thoughts
In very few places have I experienced such energies. I was surprised by the amount of enjoyment and celebration despite not being one of those “all out” and alcohol-filled gatherings such as festivals or carnivals. In many of these occasions, it is easy to lose sight of the reason why the celebration is occurring in the first and it all becomes just an “excuse” to party.
The Dia de los Muertos instead is different, maintaining its cultural aspect and tradition and constantly reminding people of the reason why it exists.
