Oaxaca

Oaxaca City, the capital of the state which goes by the same name, is a large, colorful city and tourist destination within the heart of Mexico.

The city offers wonderful streets within its center, colonial buildings, and ancient ruins, and is a known destination for foodies and people wishing to explore its signature Mezcal drinks.

The city has immensely ancient roots, dating back to the Zapotec and Mixtec civilizations. It is also one of the most well-known destinations for the celebrations of the Mexican Day of the Dead festival in November, where the city is flooded by people in a kaleidoscope of colors and festivities (I actually visited the city during this time and cover it more extensively in this article on the the Día de los Muertos)

As with other Mexican cities and towns, much of the charm of Oaxaca comes from walking within the streets of the main Zocalo, or Barrio Jalatlaco, and sitting on sidewalk cafes and restaurants, soaking up the atmosphere.

Between the city itself and its surrounding areas, with the ancient ruins of Mitla and Monte Alban, as well as the town of El Tule with its immense tree and Hierve el Agua, Oaxaca has something to offer for every traveler.

Bucket List

Like most cities in Mexico, the main Zocalo and central cathedral are a wonderful place to observe and absorb the local vibes of the residents. The city is also known for its food, which includes a wide variety of moles and is heavily based on smoking food. Also within the city center, close by the Zocalo, is Mina Street, which is surrounded by chocolate shops, also a famous delicacy of the region.

Nearby on the city’s outskirts stands El Tule with its iconic Árbol del Tule. It is the tree with the widest trunk in the world, and nothing can really prepare for the sight of this behemoth. It is very short and located on the nearby church grounds; it has a diameter of over 40m.

Take a stroll through the Jalatlaco neighborhood and admire its street art and cafes.

Oaxacans are very proud of their Mezcal, the cousin beverage of Tequila. The drink is what Scotch whiskey would be to Bourbon, namely a more researched and high-quality drink with a slower and more natural production process. As such, there are many distilleries and mezcal shops, and a mezcal tasting experience can be a good way to get to know this local specialty.

Hierve el Agua looks like a frozen waterfall and is made of calcified minerals. On top, two “frozen” pools appear as infinity pools and can be bathed in.

The Zapotec ruins of Monte Alban and Mitla showcase the pre-Mayan city architecture and are a wonderful excursion to take a break from the modern city.

3 day itinerary Oaxaca infographic — Save the 3-day itinerary for reference

What to expect

World-renowned food and drink scene.

Colorful streets in the Barrio Jalatlaco.

Bustling nightlife in the areas surrounding the central Zocalo and old town.

Beautiful ancient ruins from 700BC in the outskirts of the city.

Strong temperature excursions.

Mexico Info & Stats

Language: Spanish is the official language.
Population: 131+ million (2019 est.)
Timezone: [UTC -7, UTC -8]
Ethnic Make-up: mestizo (Amerindian-Spanish) 60%, Amerindian or predominantly Amerindian 30%, white 9%, other 1%
Religions: nominally Roman Catholic 89%, Protestant 6%, other 5%
Political System: Federal republic
Currency: Mexican Peso (abbreviated as $ which can be misleading at first)
Credit Cards: Even in some highly touristic areas, such as the Riviera Mayam, cards are not always accepted.
Electricity: Socket types A and B, 127 volt / 60 hertz
Tipping Customs: 10-15% in restaurants, taxis, and hotels
Haggling Culture: Common in markets and street vendors

Weather

The surroundings of the city will delight with their desertic, cactus-ridden plains, as Oaxaca has a tropical savanna climate. The city is located at a relatively high altitude (1500m), therefore the sun hits hard, and at night the temperatures drop quite considerably (to around 10°C).

The dry season, from November to April, sees very little rain. Daytime highs average +27.1 °C.

The wet season from May to October has cooler daytime temperatures and warmer nighttime temperatures.

Money

The currency is the Mexican Peso (MXN, often abbreviated to $ which can be misleading).

The real-time exchange rate from US dollars is: 19 MXN

Credit cards are somewhat accepted within the more touristic historical areas of the city and in large shops. ATMs are commonly distributed around the city. Of notice is that the city has some high scamming levels; therefore, it is best to use ATMs located within bank buildings.

Prices: Oaxaca is cheap because it is on a less-beaten path when compared to other destinations in the country, such as the Yucatan Peninsula or Mexico City surroundings. During highly touristic periods such as the Day of the Dead festival, prices skyrocket, and in this case, it is best to book everything in advance.

Tipping: In Mexico, tipping is expected and it is common to leave 10%, although 15, and 18 are also commonplace.

Getting around

Most attractions lie within the city center, and everything is within walking distance. It is enjoyable to walk around the colorful streets. A big part of the attractiveness of the city comes from strolling through its downtown streets.

Taxis are also widely available throughout the city and the town center.

Driving is easy, like in other Mexican towns (see here for some driving tips within Mexico) but it is not the best way to move around the city.

As with other Mexican towns, most locals get around either by car or through collectivos (buses to other pueblos).

Safety

Safety: There is a higher-than-average risk of pickpockets and even mugging in Oaxaca. Also, scams are widespread, especially impersonating police authorities. There is also drug-related crime in the area. All these things make it so that for some people, visiting Oaxaca is a bad experience, whereas others do not have any issues.

Natural risks: Central Mexico is prone to earthquakes and visitors can experience occasional tremors.

Emergencies number: 911

source: travel-advisory.info

* Data gathered from amadeus.com

Tips & Impressions

The historic city center with the main Zocalo and the Barrio Jalatlaco are wonderful to just walk through and hang in the outdoor cafes and restaurants
As with other cities in Mexico, the streets are riddled with street food and Oaxaca is no different. The chaotic street markets are also a joy to get lost in. When it comes to food, the region of Oaxaca is famous for its variety of moles as well as mezcal, which is similar to tequila only at first and soon reveals to be more complex in terms of taste and production. There is also a strong tradition of chocolate and the chapulines (fried grasshopers) are a must to try.
A visit to Arbol del Tule is also a nice addition. This is the widest tree in the world and peculiarly stands directly in the center of town in front of a small church, 20 minutes drive from Oaxaca.

Deals for Oaxaca City

Where to stay

Travelogue

I visited Oaxaca during the Day of the Dead festivities and the city was brimming with people, colors, flowers, altars and calaveras. After 5 days enjoying the spectacle I moved to Mazunte and then returned a week later to see a completely and clearly more laid-back city. I spent a lot of time in barrio Jalatlaco enjoying the weather, delicious coffee and local atmosphere.

Day 1
- City walk
- Zocalo
Day 2
- Barrio de Jalatlaco
- Monte Albán
Day 3
- Arbol del Tule

Accommodation

When I visited for the Dia de Muertos I stayed at Hotel Casona Oaxaca ($$$$$), right next to the Zocalo/main town square and cathedral. Prices were predictably very high during this period.

On the return trip, my accommodation was City Centro Oaxaca ($$$$$), in the Jalatlaco neighborhood.

Both were excellent stays, with strategic locations in the city center and major tourist neighborhoods and both offered internal courtyards which shielded from the hustle and bustle of the outdoor city.