There is something special, humbling, and primal about driving through vast expanses, surrounded by untamed nature, and what can only be described as “nothingness”.
Australia most definitely lends itself to this kind of trip and the country has become almost a synonym for a camping road trip across a seemingly infinite land.
Be it in the north, enjoying the tropical climate around Darwin, or the short but beautiful coastline between Melbourne and Sydney on the Great Ocean Road, or coasting the East side in Victoria and Queensland north towards Cairns, or through the unique Red Center to visit the iconic Uluru/Ayers Rock.
But there is another road trip that can be done in the Land Down Under, and which can be described as the ultimate Aussie road trip, if only for its sheer audacity.
This is the coast to coast, West to East, from Perth to Sydney, driving across the Nullarbor Plain, on the (eerily) straight Eyre Highway.
The breadth of this trip cannot be understated: it traverses 2 timezones, presents vastly different environments, encompasses both untamed land, the majority of all urban areas, and some of the most famous landmarks of the continent.
On this trip you can visit the largest cities of Australia like Melbourne, Sydney and Perth, as well as the culturally famous city of Adelaide. Smaller surfer-paradise cities, port towns that offer some of the best seafood that you will ever taste, and old mining towns.
On the natural side, the sights are also beautiful with the vineyards in the west and east marking the edges of the immense stretch of the continent in the center. Massive rock cliffs originating from tectonic plates shifts, abruptly meet the Southern Ocean. An ocean that relentlessly carves its way into the land, with pinnacles of solitary rocks that stubbornly defy the incessant waves. Where the waves won, kilometers-long stretches of powder-white beaches with silicon rich sand that sings and squeaks when steppped on.
And of course an abundance of the iconic Australian wildlife, with Kangaroos everywhere, Koalas in their natural habitat, Penguins, Dolphins, Sea Lions, and Whales between october and june, and more birds that can be counted.
In short, there is no lack of beautiful sights. But it is not the large amount of things to see and do that make this road trip special. It’s the central part that creates the most memorable experience. The part which is one of the most remote areas of Australia, where the Eyre Highway – a perfectly straight paved road that runs over 1000km – connects Western Australia and South Australia, through the desolate Nullarbor Plain.
Here the endless horizon weighs down on everything and even the trees do not dare to grow, leaving space only to timid bushes.
(Nullarbor in fact meaning “no tree” in Latin).
As you drive through this perfectly straight road – a drive that lasts multiple days – you are perpetually accompanied by the towering cliffs over the Great Australian Bight on one side. On the other side, only a valley of grassland and low-lying shrubs that stretches as far as the eye can see (and then proceed for thousands and thousands of kilometers into the heart of the continent, leading to the Red Center).
Driving through the Nullarbor Plain becomes almost a character defining experience, as you are forced to rely on only yourself and your trusty vehicle, while in the company of absolute solitude.
Occasionally, when you cross another sporadic driver, in the opposite direction, you salute them, like two sailors meeting in a vast ocean.
During this multi-day journey, the heavy horizon presses on you, humbling you down, and forcing you to think.
At night you stop inland, searching for a slightly taller tree, and admire a star-studded sky with the milky way stretching across the void.
Silence rules supreme in the Nullarbor Plain, and nature is in it’s fundamental and elemental form.
The little human life you encounter is found in the quirky gas stations. Here you find travelers fixing their vehicles, stocking up on precious water, food, and some electrical charge. Truck drivers of the large road trains are treated as legendary warriors. Tourists ponder which keychain or souvenir certificate of accomplishment with written “I crossed the Nullarbor Plain” to buy.
These stops are mandatory and welcome, but eventually you need to proceed. When you start up the engine, crows cawk at you, unclear if as a salute, a warning, or an eerie premonition.
The entire coast to coast trip isn’t just a drive; it’s an odyssey that can easily become the road adventure of a lifetime. What is certain is that the days in the Nullarbor Plain leave an indelible mark on every traveller’s heart.
For more information and tips on driving a campervan in Australia, check out this article
